Drilled about 7 3/16" holes on bottom half of end for exhaust to leave and help trap the heat in the can. I bolted a 1" copper cap in middle of bottom of can to slide pipe into to help keep can centered and have better stability. Put 3/4" cap on end of pipe.If you can't solder then drill pilot hole and use small screw to hold on pipe. Drilled 3/32" holes 1" apart AND staggered around pipe. Pipe was long enough to clear engine and go to end of can about 10" ish or so. I had to round the muffler pipe with the 3/4" copper fittings. Took muffler off, then cut it off of header just below welds (engines don't like metal fillings in them). I only put the supply in about 15"-18", in the front.so that I can pull it out with ONE yank ! I used an old air line from another project. On bottom of mixer can, make similar bulk head connections to be able to attach to the diver hot water supply. One line (cold water) FROM pump to mixer can. One line FROM Heat Exchanger to mixer can. I have one IM line from pump TO Heat Exchanger. Then another 0ring, then I used standard faucet nuts and washers to secure to can lid for ice maker lines. Again to be able to use ice maker lines to move the mixer around.ฤก/4" compression by 1/4" MIP into 1/4" Fm bushing by 1/2" MIP. Used 3/4" GH (garden hose) by 1/4" od compression fittings at the pump. Used 1/4" od compression unions for copper ends so that I can use ice maker lines to move the mixing can around till I decide to mount it. Used a dole pineapple can to make the inner coil, then a piece of 4" pvc to make the outer coil. With the advice and suggestions from Jordan, OKBASSPRO and Gold Hog and other forum members here.
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